Tititea — 3,033m — Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand
Mount Aspiring — Tititea — rises to 3,033 metres at the head of the Matukituki Valley in Mount Aspiring National Park. It is the only peak over 3,000 metres outside of Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park and is often called the Matterhorn of the Southern Alps for its striking pyramid shape and aesthetic ridgelines.
Peak Experience runs guided Mt Aspiring expeditions from our base in Wanaka. Our IFMGA and NZMGA-qualified guides have extensive experience on this mountain across all its major routes. Whether you are attempting your first big alpine climb or looking to tick off one of New Zealand’s most iconic summits, we will tailor the expedition to your experience level and ambitions.
The NW Ridge is the standard route on Mt Aspiring and the one most guided expeditions follow. It involves glacier travel on the Bonar Glacier, a steep snow and ice climb to gain the ridge, and an exposed but spectacular ridge traverse to the summit. The route requires competence with crampons, ice axe, and rope work, but is achievable for fit climbers with some prior alpine experience. We assess conditions and your skills on the approach days to ensure you are well prepared before summit day.
The SW Ridge is a longer, more technical route offering a serious alpine challenge. It involves sustained climbing on mixed terrain — rock, snow, and ice — with more exposure and route-finding demands. This route is suited to experienced alpinists who have climbed at a similar grade before. Talk to us if the SW Ridge interests you and we will advise on whether it is the right objective for your experience level.
Mt Aspiring has several other routes including the North Face and East Ridge. These are serious undertakings — get in touch if you have a specific route in mind
Meet your guide in Wanaka for a detailed briefing, equipment check, and pack preparation. We review the weather forecast, discuss the route plan, and make sure your gear is sorted. If weather allow we fly in directly to Bevan Col
Helicopter flight from the Matukituki Valley to the Bonar Glacier. Settle into Colin Todd Hut at 1800mm. Afternoon skills and training combined with doing a reccy on access to the NW Ridge
We would normally attempt to climb Aspiring by either the Full NW ridge, The Ramp or the Kangaroo fields. This will be a long day. After getting back to the hut we will make a plan for walking out after a well deserved rest
We'll leave in the early moring to give us the best chance of beating the days heat as we exit via the Quater deck ( early season ) or via Bevan Col and then down into the lower valley
We'll spend a slow morning walking out from Aspiring hut to the car and then back to wanaka.
Note This is an example intineary only – weather and delays mean we may need to re-arrange this schedule. Helicopter back flights may also be possible to be arrange but it is not guaranteed.
Helicopter from the Matukituki Valley to the Bonar Glacier — 15 minutes. This is the standard approach and is NOT included in the trip price
Follow the Matukituki Valley track to French Ridge Hut, then cross to Colin Todd Hut via the Bonar Glacier. Adds an extra day.
Exit by helicopter (not included, ~NZ$350) or walk out via the valley track — a full day on foot back to Raspberry Flat car park.
Mt Aspiring is not a beginner's mountain, but it doesn't require years of climbing history either. You should have:
If you are unsure whether you are ready, talk to us. We are happy to assess your experience and recommend preparatory courses or climbs. Our Alpine Skills Course and Remarkables day climb are excellent stepping stones towards a Mt Aspiring expedition.
If this is your first big mountain objective, we may recommend our Ascents Week programme first, which builds your skills progressively over several days of climbing.
IFMGA & NZMGA certified — the highest international mountain guiding qualification, recognised in 26 countries
Based in Wanaka — 50km from the mountain with decades of local knowledge and route experience
DOC concession holder for Mt Aspiring National Park. AdventureMark accredited for safety and quality.
1:1 guide-to-client ratio — personalised instruction, flexible itineraries, and maximum safety on the mountain
The climbing season runs from October to March. The most settled weather typically occurs in November–December and February–March. January can be warm but is often less stable. Our guides monitor long-range forecasts to select the best windows.
We most commonly guide variations on the North West Ridge including the Kangaroo Fields and Full NW Buttress. If you are interested in the SW ridge then please don’t hesitate to enquire.
You should be able to hike for 6–8 hours carrying a 10–15kg pack over consecutive days. Regular cardiovascular training (running, cycling, tramping with a pack) in the months before your expedition will make a significant difference to your enjoyment and summit chances.
Safety is non-negotiable. If conditions are not suitable for a safe summit attempt, we adjust the plan. This may mean waiting for a weather window (with additional contingency days), changing to a different objective, or using the time for skills training on the glacier. We work with you to make the most of every day in the mountains.
Mt Aspiring requires prior alpine experience. If you are new to mountaineering, we recommend starting with our Alpine Skills Course or a day climb on the Remarkables, then building towards Mt Aspiring as a longer-term goal.
You need personal climbing equipment including mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, and harness.
If you don’t own these, we can arrange hire in Wanaka.
All group technical equipment and avalanche safety gear is provided.
LINK TO FULL EQUIPMENT LIST
Ready to climb? Contact us to discuss dates, experience level, and route options
